Bye-Bye, Bad Breath

Dental health is very important to dogs, especially since they use their mouths for just about everything. To help keep their mouths and teeth as clean and healthy as possible, brushing should occur regularly. For instructions on how to brush teeth click here.

Dog toothpastes, sometimes referred to as dental pastes or dental cleaners, are an essential part of hygiene. Dogs can suffer similar dental problems as humans, including tartar and periodontal disease; these can be avoided by regular brushing.

There are several new products on the market that help pet owners care for their pet's teeth. Products include various types of toothpaste, styles of toothbrushes, and multiple products that minimize tartar. There are several brands and types of dog toothpaste products to choose from. Here are some tips to help you choose the right toothpaste for your dog.

Remember that you should always use a canine-specific type. The product must be safe to swallow and ingest because dogs are unable to rinse or spit after brushing. Never use human dental care products! Some human toothpastes contain detergents which can irritate a pet’s stomach; also, large quantities of ingested fluoride can be harmful to pets.

When buying toothpaste for your dog, consider the ingredients, size of the container (a sample size may be a good idea), flavor, digestibility, form (paste, liquid, gel, pads, spray, sponges, rinse, etc.). It may be helpful if the products are easy to use. Ideally, your choice should be something your dog likes. For some dogs, a beef or chicken flavored paste works very well. It may take a few trial and error sessions before you find something that works for your dog.

Brush-Up On At-Home Dental Care

Annual dental exams with a veterinarian are necessary for your dog’s optimum oral health. Although some procedures should only be done by a professional, you can still take advantage of an at-home dental health care program for added assurance and prevention. Brushing and routine examinations are two preventative measures that can easily be done at home.

While performing oral exams, look for warning signs like bad breath, red or swollen gums, a yellowish-brown crust of tartar around the gum-line, or pain or bleeding when you touch the gums or mouth. These signs are all expressive of gingivitis and other gum diseases. Watch for discolored, fractured or missing teeth. Consult your veterinarian if you notice any bumps or masses forming inside the mouth.

Step-By-Step Guide to Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

Here are some easy-to-follow steps to brushing your dog’s teeth. This process will start off gradually, but will pick up in no time. Try not to overly restrain your dog because it may imply something negative. Be positive and excited during the process and your dog will be positive and excited as well.

1. It’s all about introducing something new and having a positive response. Dip your finger into some beef bouillon and call the dog as if you had a treat. Let your dog lick off the liquid, then proceed to gently rub the teeth and gums. Keep it brief. After a few sessions this will be a welcomed occurrence and you can move on.
2. Repeat the first step, but this time; wrap a small strip of gauze around your finger to let your dog become familiar with a new texture. Rub the teeth in a circular motion. Again, keep the sessions brief to avoid discomfort or disinterest. Praise your dog to let them know they’re doing well.
3. After your dog is used to the gauze you can switch to a toothbrush. Before actually brushing, let your dog get used to the texture of the bristles. You can do this by applying something that tastes good to the bristles and having your dog lick it off.
4. Once your dog is used to the brush you can introduce a toothpaste or rinse (use pet specific products, DO NOT use human products). Dog toothpastes are generally flavored with poultry or something your dog will immediately enjoy. Let your dog lick it off your finger, then gently rub it over the gums like in Step 1.
5. The hardest thing is getting started. Once you and your dog have gotten used to the routine, make it a daily occurrence. If you can’t do it daily, every other day will still keep plaque from materializing and will have an overall positive effect on your dog’s oral and dental health.

At-home dental health care is not only limited to you – your dog can also participate while having fun. A number of toys are designed specifically to reduce plaque and tartar build-up. Become familiar with your dog’s chewing habits to help you pick out an appropriately sized and textured chew toy

4 Steps to Successful Crate Training

Crate training can be useful for a number of things. It you have a new dog or puppy, a crate can limit your dog’s access to your house until he learns your rules; this will impede unwanted items from being chewed and will also cut down on house-wide accidents. It also serves as a way to safely transport your dog by car or taking him to places that running around unattended may not be an option. If you properly train your dog, the crate will be thought of as a safe and welcome place. Water should always be available when your dog is in the crate; spill-proof bowls are a good idea.

Types of Crates:

Crates can be plastic (also known as “flight kennels”), or collapsible, metal pens. Collapsible fabric kennels are designed to be used when the owner is present and should not be used for long periods of isolation. Crates come in many different sizes and are available at most pet supply stores. It is important that the crate is large enough for to allow the dog room to stand and turn around.

Starting the Training Process:

The length of the training process depends on individual factors (i.e. your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences). Always remember that the crate is supposed to be a place your dog will want to go, so don’t use it as a form of punishment. Start off slow and work gradually.

STEP 1

Put the crate in an area of the house that the family spends a lot of time. Put a towel or blanket in the crate and, in a calm and reassuring voice, coax your dog into the crate. Make sure the door is securely fastened open, this way it can be somewhere the dog doesn’t feel trapped and you won’t have to worry about it hitting and possibly scaring the dog. Place treats near the crate to encourage your dog to spend time around it. Then start placing treats near the front of the crate, eventually move the treats further into the crate. If your dog doesn’t go all the way inside don’t force him. Stop laying treats around the outside of crate to persuade your dog in if it wants a treat. If treats aren’t working, try using a favorite toy.

STEP 2

Once the introductory phase is over, start placing the dog’s regular meals near the crate; this will reinforce the idea of a welcome place. Start placing the meals further inside the crate, just as you did with the treats. When your dog is comfortably entering the crate and eating meals you can start closing the door. At first, only keep it closed while he’s eating. Leave the door closed a little longer with each successful feeding. If he starts to whine, you may have increased the time too quickly. If this occurs shorten the time, if he continues to whine DO NOT let him out until he has finished, otherwise he’ll think that whining is a way out.

STEP 3

After your dog has been eating meals while confined without any fear or anxiety you can move on. Start putting him in the crate for short periods of time while you’re home. Use a treat and a command to let him know to enter the crate; once he has, praise him and give him the treat. Sit quietly near the crate for 5 to 10 minutes (don’t give the dog attention), then move to another room for a short time. When you come back to the crate sit quietly for another 5 to 10 minutes before opening the door. Repeat this a few times a day, each time increasing the periods of time you’re gone. Once your dog will sit quietly with you out of sight for 30 minutes you can begin leaving him in the crate for short periods while you’re gone or letting him sleep there at night.

STEP 4

Once your dog is spending 30 minute intervals without getting anxious, you can start leaving for extended short periods of time. Follow the basic idea featured in Step 3, Part I; use treats and stay near the cage for 5 minutes or so, then leave. Refrain from making a big deal when you leave and try not to be gone for extended periods of time. Also, don’t make a big deal about returning and keep him crated for a few minutes after you return so he doesn’t associate the crate with being alone. Use the same command and treat routine at night. It may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway for starting nighttime crating, especially if you have a puppy because they sometimes need to be let out at night. You also do not want to imply social isolation. Once your dog has a few successful nights, gradually move the crate to your preferred location. Potential Problems

Too Much Time in the Crate:

Don’t depend on the crate or expect it to be a solution to unwanted behavior. If used improperly, your dog may feel trapped, neglected or frustrated. Don’t keep your dog crated for too long. For example, don’t leave him crated all day while you’re at work and then again when you’re sleeping. Puppies under 6 months shouldn’t be crated for more than 3 hours because they have limited bladder control.

Whining:

It may be hard to tell, at first, if your dog is whining to be let out or whining because it needs to be let outside – there’s a big difference. Try to ignore the whining; yelling or another aggravated response will make the situation worse. If the whining continues after a few minutes of you ignoring him, use your “go outside?” phrase; if he responds excitedly, take him out. Make sure the trip is only a bathroom break; do not allow the dog to play. After you determine whether or not he has to go, put him back in the crate and ignore the whining; giving in will teach your dog that whining will get him out, the whining may get louder in that case. If this is a repeated problem you may need to start the whole process over again.

10 Rules to Successful Agility Training

1. Teach your dog how to play. Add rules to games so they learn while they are having fun; this is the start to successful enhancement in agility performance.
2. 
   Supervision is vital. This will allow you to monitor your dog’s progress and will also allow you to correct any reoccurring mistakes in the course run.Use your pet’s name. A command followed by their name is very powerful.
3. 
   Use it only to get their attention or to turn them; don’t use it on a straightaway or in a situation that you do not want them to display a strong response to you.
4. 
   When instructing your dog, tell them what you want them to do, rather than what you don’t want them to do. The directional commands, positions and object names should be more intense than the reprimands.
5. 
   Be sure to work extensively through every part of the obstacle. This includes jumps, tunnels, contact approaches, contact zones, poles, etc. Look at, signal at, and command every obstacle. Be clear and deliberate with your instructions.
6. 
   Give directions before you reach an object. Always tell your dog where to go and what to do before it is expected to occur.
7. 
   Make sure your dog is approaching contacts and weaves at the correct angle. This may take an extra moment to straighten out, but will make your pet run more efficiently and will cut down on lost time on future runs.
8. 
   Never show anger on the course. As the instructor it is your job to properly teach the dog on how to execute the movements and directions. Always reward your dog and praise them for a job well done. It is a game. And never punish your dog for your lack of enthusiasm.
9. 
   Work every course to the sometimes rigidly, never give up. Even good judges miss calls for bars down or contacts you may think you've missed. The official judging will not be made by you, so don’t stress about it when you should be focusing on working your dog through the course.
10. 
    Be courteous when interacting with fellow competitors, students, teachers and friends. Never discuss events that you may believe are the fault of someone else. Be pleasant and mature.